Jeff Meller
6 Nov 13
598 words
Victorian explorers in shopping malls,
appealing radioactive local foods, helping jilted girlfriends are among the subjects
anthologized in “The Best American Travel Writing of 2012.”
The travel writer, David Abel, of The
Boston Globe asserts that the first sentence of a travel essay requires the
most sweat to craft. It should hook the reader and set the context for the
story.
How do the first sentences of three
contributions to the 2012 edition of “The Best American Travel Writing” realize
this exhausting achievement?
Monte Reel launches his essay “How to
Explore Like a Real Victorian Adventurer” with this gripping sentence:
“In Zanzibar, late
in 1856, Richard F. Burton and a caravan of porters prepared to venture into
the heart of Africa’s interior to search for the source of the Nile.”
Not gripping and not relevant, except to its
title. The essay in fact is about how to
explore your local shopping mall. Reel encourages
readers to observe keenly as did, he says, 19th century explorers like
Burton. But Reel does not examine real Victorian adventurers. Rather he reviews
Victorian travel “how-to manuals” which told Victorian tourists how to follow comfortably
in the footsteps of the real adventurers.
Henry Shukman offers a less prosaic
destination than the shopping mall in “Chernobyl, My Primeval, Teeming, Irradiated
Eden.” He endeavors to hook readers with this opening gambit:
“The wild boar is
standing 30 or 40 yards away, at the bottom of a grassy bank, staring right at
me.”
If the opening is not riveting, Shukman does
at least have an intriguing idea: to visit the Chernobyl region a quarter-century
after the great meltdown.
Shukman is invited to a meal of local foods
inside the 1,100 square mile Exclusion Zone: fish, eggs, tomatoes, bread,
berries and vodka. He has been admonished by friends: “don’t eat anything that
grows there.” But, he exclaims, “It’s all local and it all looks great;” he “tucks
in” like the locals. “Going native” has virtues in meaningful travel. But when one
of the natives tells him “Radiation is good for you,” Shukman suspends his cosmopolitan
education at his peril.
The last of the three submissions actually follows
Abel’s prescription:
“In the ancient
caravan city of Timbuktu, many nights before I encountered the bibliophile or
the marabout or comforted the Green Beret’s girlfriend, I was summoned to a
rooftop to meet the salt merchant.”
What reader wouldn’t want to learn more
about the bibliophile, marabout, girlfriend, and salt merchant in such an
exotic locale?
Peter Gwin’s essay, “The Telltale Scribes
of Timbuktu,” however, diverts its attention from the captivation tale of the scribes
in its digressions on the salt merchant, marabout and girlfriend.
The salt merchant has a friend who wants to
sell some parchments; the girlfriend had a two week fling with a Green Beret
and hopes he will take her to the US; and the marabout, a Muslim mystic, wants
to sell Gwen an amulet to protect him from Al Qaeda for US$ 1,000.
Only the tale of the bibliophile is worth
telling. Haidara has a library of 22,000 volumes assembled over 500 years. He points
Gwin to the real story: the threat to “many thousands of manuscripts which lie
buried in the desert or forgotten in hiding places slowly succumbing to heat,
rock and bugs.” Gwin, writing in National Geographic, one of the most esteemed
scientific publishers in the world, overlooks this story to tell of the unexceptional
charlatans and girlfriend.
If this is “The Best American Travel Writing
of 2012,” the reader only may hope for the redemption of American travel
writing in 2013.
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Sources:
None.
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